Uplift Make Along April Sponsors (Part 1)

The Uplift Make Along is in full swing! So far it’s been a great time of discovering new designers, exploring the Mighty Network together, and dipping our toes into the pool of the event.

This first sponsor post has been a long time coming because makers keep offering prizes (and because my computer intermittently decides to stop working)! I waited until I have all the current prize donations logged so I can divide them up evenly between months as well as prizes that ship in the USA only vs internationally. Please note that these shipping restrictions are at the discretion of the sponsor, specified when they donated the prize.

  • Winners for these prizes will be drawn via random selection (Random Number Generator [RNG] for Mighty Networks posts with the “Finished Object” topic tag, and either an RNG or hashtag chooser for Instagram posts of Finished Projects for the event using the #UpliftMakeAlong hashtag.
  • Winners will be instructed to contact the donor with their shipping details. If the donor does not receive an email within 1 week, another winner will be drawn via the same method as above.

Without further ado, here are the Prize Sponsors for April!
Sponsor’s businesses (if they are a business) can be found by clicking on their name at the top of their post.

Holly Press Fibers

skeins of yarn in the back of a translucent white square with black text reading "Uplift Make Along Prize Sponsor: Holly Press Fibers. Winner's choice of one in-stock sock set. #UpliftMakeAlong. www.hollypressfibers.com

(Shipping to USA + Canada Only)

Fiber Swag

6 wood etched stitch markers labeled: In a clockwise direction, starting at the top left: "Sheepicorn," "Sheepsquatch," "The Sheepken," "Medusheep," "Mersheep," "Pegasheep"

(Ships to USA only – 1 set each to 3 winners)
Description from maker: Available as outlines or shaded.

These hand crafted stitch markers will help you keep track of your place in your next knit or crochet project. Each light weight wooden stitch marker measures 1 inch in diameter. The closed metal ring measures just over 8 mm in diameter, fitting comfortably on up to a size 10 (US) knitting needle. The metal ring is a snag free, soldered jump ring. Alternatively, these can be made with a lobster clasp that will fit over a size 5 (US) knitting needle or a larger lobster claw that will fit over a size 11 (US) knitting needle.

Over the Moon Yarn

Plastic ice cream cone stitch marker on a background of multicolored sprinkles Two knit hats designed to look like ice cream cones lay on a white background, demonstrating the "Ice Scream" pattern by Over the Moon Yarns

Ships Worldwide – Ice Scream hat kit (knit)

Description from Maker:

An aran weight hat that looks like 3 scoops of ice cream melting down a waffle cone completed with a cherry on top pom pom.
The yarn is Asteroid Aran 100% superwash merino. The kit contains 1x 100g skein of aran and 3x 25g skeins of contrasting aran weight minis for your ice cream flavours. The kit is complete with red green and brown yarn to make the pompom on top.  Along with an acrylic space ice cream stitch marker and of course the pattern!

Dodo Beadworks

Two beaded stitch markers are clipped on a white hank of yarn. The left marker is a spiral, red/white/black pattern, the right marker is a frog who appears unamused to be a stitch marker!

Ships Worldwide – Stitch Marker Set

Description from maker: I offer two types of progress keepers in my shop so I thought it would be fun to offer a prize package that included one of each: one peyote stitched Bead Tube Progress Keeper with Black, White, and Cranberry Red Beads along with a brick stitched Green Frog Progress Keeper.

They were each created through a process of weaving tiny little glass beads to other tiny little beads over and over again to produce a progress keeper that’s as adorable as it’s lightweight.

Thank you, prize sponsors, for your generosity!
If you like what you see, you can check out the makers shops by clicking on their names – they have lots of wonderful products!
Remember you can join the Uplift Make Along in the Mighty Network or by using the Instagram hashtag #UpliftMakeAlong

Uplift Make Along

Are there fiber arts designers who don’t get the spotlight you think they deserve? Make one of their patterns and show it off! The Uplift Make Along is a online event created to celebrate and show off the work of independent knitting and crochet pattern designers. (<–YouTube Link to Barbara Benson’s video helping to define “Indie Designer”)

This event is not an anti “big-name designers,”  event, but it does focus on showcasing the work of up and coming, or less well known designers. These are designers that are working hard to create and sell professional quality patterns on a regular basis, but feel that they struggle to gain traction or could use a boost. The goal of this event is to uplift and support each other, not to complain about or put down those whose successful businesses have them in the current community spotlight.


The Uplift Make Along will be hosted on a Mighty Network I’ve created (a link will be added once the network is made public) and Instagram. On Instagram use the hashtag #UpliftMakeAlong

Crafts Included: Knitting, Crochet, Tunisian Crochet

Important Dates

– Official Project Start:
April 1, 2021 (whatever time zone you’re in, if it’s April 1, you can start!)
– Event Ends: June 30, 2021 (end of the day wherever you are)

How does this event define whether a designer is well-known or not?

This event is not designed as a launchpad for brand new designers, nor is it a marketing course. The Uplift Make Along it is intended to create a space where makers can discover and showcase the work of designers who are publishing professional quality patterns with the intent of creating a profitable business.

With that goal in mind, I’ve decided that i’m not going to give you a specific list of requirements, but rather some things to think about:

Perceptions on social media and the reality of running a small business can be very different from each other. Perceptions =/= reality.

With that said, here’s some questions to ask yourself when choosing a pattern or designer to show off in this event.

  • Can you refer to the designer by their first name or business name only and others will immediately know who you mean? Consider choosing someone who’s less well-known.
  • Are you thinking of making that popular pattern you’ve seen a whole bunch of people making all over social media? Consider choosing one you think no one has seen before, or that is amazing and more people should see it!
  • Does this designer have 15k+ followers on social media? Consider choosing someone who has fewer so you can help boost their visibility.
  • The past year has seen lots of designers retire from selling their patterns. Are the designer’s patterns currently available for sale? If not, please choose someone whose are so you can help spotlight their work.

TL;DR: you can make any pattern by any designer. I trust that you will be keeping the “less known” part of designer spotlighting in mind when you choose. I will not be refereeing of whose patterns can be made or not made, or whether a designer is “too well known” to participate. We don’t know what is happening behind the scenes in anyone’s life or business.



Are WIPs allowed? Yes, but if you’re working off a project started before April 1, 2021, the finished item won’t be entered into prize drawings.

Are there prizes? Yes, some. The goal of this event is to uplift designers, connect designers with makers, and uplift each other. But, sometimes a little yarn or pattern prize doesn’t hurt too, right? I’m thankful that some very generous makers have offered to donate prizes so we can thank you for participating and supporting independent designers. A separate sponsor post will be created that will detail the prizes and how they’ll be given out.

Do I have to use a “paid for” pattern? Please use a pattern from a designer who is primarily creating self-published, paid-for patterns (If you’re not sure what that means, scroll up and watch the video in which Barbara Benson helps to define an Indie Designer). You can use a pattern you already own, you could use one that was gifted to you, or you could explore the designer intros and find a new pattern.

What is Mighty Networks?
Mighty Networks is just what it sounds like – a platform that allows for the creation of public or private networks. Think of it like the “create a post” feature of Facebook + the privacy of Slack, and more!

In this case, i’ve created a network specifically for the Uplift Make Along. Here’s a few features I’m really excited about:

1. Designers and makers will be able to label themselves by their specialties! This means if you’re a knitting designer, you can label yourself that way. Tunisian crocheter only? You can add that if you’d like! This will help makers find designers who create their desired type of patterns and let other makers know about your favorite skill!

2. The ability to add geographic location (optional)
I don’t know about you, but sometimes it feels like being a fiber arts designer or maker is pretty lonely. Sometimes just knowing that others are near you and doing the same thing can help! This isn’t intended to be evasive or specific (I actually ask that you please NOT be specific about your exact location), but more of maybe a town/state/province/country type of thing. OR you can choose not to add this at all – it’s completely up to what you feel comfortable with.

3. Topic Tags!
Have you ever come upon a make along and wished you could find ONLY the knitting posts or ONLY the crochet posts, or ONLY the finished objects? Topic tags will allow you to do that! Designer introductions will also get a special topic tag so you can scroll through just designer intros and learn about a bunch of new designers!


How can I join in as a designer?

– Head over to the Mighty Network (Link) Once there, you will find instructions to create your introductory post. Designer intros will have a special tag on them that allows makers to click directly to them and scroll through only intro posts; It’ll be a gallery of designers to explore!

– Join in the Instagram challenge and/or interact with makers on the Network. This is an important one. Knitters and crocheters will be making your pattern with the goal of showing it off to help your business. Let’s show them our appreciation by helping to make this an amazing event and by joining right in with them.

– Join in as a maker. Make a design by another designer that you want to uplift!
Can you make your own pattern? Yes, but it’s not in the spirit of the event. As designers, we self-promote all the time (and there will be a self-promo portion of the event), but this event is focused on showing off someone else’s work and trusting that others will show off yours.

– Promote the Make Along to your audience. Use your social media, newsletter, podcast, or whatever way you prefer to talk to your people to reach out and let them know the Make Along is happening. Encourage them to check out the hashtags, chat, and take advantage of the Mighty Network to  discover new designers that they love and connect with fellow makers!

– Post once per week in the self promo group. This will be the place for you to highlight a pattern that needs some love, a new pattern release that has just been published, etc. More details about this will be given in the network.


How can I join in as a maker?

Come on over to the Mighty Network, or join on Instagram by using the hashtag #UpliftMakeAlong
– Choose a knitting, crochet, or Tunisian crochet pattern by a designer you think needs more visibility and to have their work shown off. It can be one of the designers who has created an intro post, or one you know of that you’d like to uplift! Make their pattern, then post about it on the Mighty Network site or Instagram and let people know who the designer is and why you love this project so much!

– Join in the Instagram challenge! I’ll be posting weekly prompts to help you share designers you love, discover new favorites, and show off your work.

This post will be updated when the network goes public and if/when event updates are made. This is a new event, so tweaks and changes are bound to happen.



A crochet blanket of joined hexagons. The hexagon centers are multicolored circles that look like sunshines or flowers, surrounded by gray borders that change their shape into hexagons.

It’s nearing the end of the year and no matter which holidays you celebrate, you’re probably gearing up to knit or crochet some gifts! 

One of my favorite things about this season is knitting and crocheting along with other makers and chatting about our makes.

This year it seems there’s a lot of new events popping up, so naturally I need to make a list to keep track of them all! I figure if I need a list, you might need one too, right?

So here’s what i’m going to do – I’ve created a Google Form for event organizers to input their event information – dates, hashtags, platforms, the works! That will auto-generate a spreadsheet for us all to reference!

If you are participating in an event and your event organizer hasn’t entered their event, feel free to email me at ruth.brasch@gmail.com and request it be added – I’m happy to add events to the list!

The only reason i’m requesting participants not fill out the form is so the same event doesn’t get entered multiple times or with incorrect information.

Link to Form
Link to Spreadsheet of Events!

Afterthought Heel Pickup Photo Tutorial

Photo Aug 17, 4 09 48 PM

Ready to cut your knitting? This tutorial is for a true afterthought heel – one where you measure to the correct spot, and then follow the instructions below to begin to insert the heel.
If you’re wondering why I don’t knit a line of waste yarn into the sock at the correct height, it’s because that is called a FORETHOUGHT heel, because (as the name suggests) it requires forethought to plan the heel placement.
With an afterthought heel, you can knit the foot and leg as long as you’d like without having to measure for heel placement.

Need a full afterthought heel pattern that will fit the whole family?
Try my Scrambled Socks!



Afterthought Heel Photo Tutorial

Photo 1: At the correct height, insert your needle into the right side of all the sole stitches in one row (you should pick up half the stitch count of the whole sock). Then, do the same thing two rows up with the other needle.

Photo 2: Pick a middle stitch in the skipped row (where no stitches were picked up), and cut it.

Photo 3: Use a yarn needle to begin unraveling the stitches to the left and right of the cut stitch. Do NOT unravel the last 2 stitches on either side of the row.

Photos 4 & 5: This is how each side should look when you are done unraveling. 4 stitches total are left as they were. They will be knit as normal with the rest of the heel, but leaving them attached will prevent a hole in the side of the heel.


To complete the heel, knit as you would knit a toe and graft it shut.
Full sock instructions, including stitch counts and information on where to cut in your heel can be found in my Scrambled Socks pattern.


Happy Knitting!

Scrambled Socks

By Ruth Brasch

Photo Aug 17, 4 09 31 PM

These socks are knit all out of order – they’re scrambled!

Instead of starting from one direction or another, the entirety of both feet and both legs are knit first, then both cuffs, toes, and heels are added!

The nature of this pattern makes it an excellent mindless project or travel project – you can knit the entire foot and leg tube without having to count stitches, turn heels, or graft toes!

This pattern includes a recipe to help you calculate sock length – whether you want an ankle sock or a mid calf length sock, all the details are included (and don’t worry, i’ve done the majority of the math for you. You just do a simple A-B type equation, and you’re off to the races!)

Video tutorials are included to help you work a crocheted provisional cast on and to separate the tube into two sock legs. A photo tutorial explains how to cut and knit the afterthought heel.

This pattern has been professionally tech edited for clarity and accuracy.


32 sts /44 rounds = 4” (10 cm) in blocked stockinette stitch



  • Size US 1.5 (2.5 mm) knitting needles in the size needed to meet specified gauge, in your preferred style for small circumference knitting
  • Size US 1 (2.25) knitting needles in the size .25mm smaller than gauge needles.
  • Yarn (See chart to right)
  • Scissors
  • Waste yarn (just a few yards)
  • Stitch markers: 2 locking, 2 ring

Crochet Cast On

Cutting the Sock Tube for Toes

Cutting in the Afterthought Heel 

K = knit
K2tog = knit next two stitches together as one
Kfb = knit in front and back of next stitch
Ktbl = knit in back loop of next stitch
P = purl
Pg(s) = page(s)
Ssk = slip next two stitches knitwise, one at a time, then transfer both stitches back to the left needle together, and knit them together as one.
St(s) = stitch(es)

Measure the circumference of the ball of the intended wearer’s foot. For children, choose a size that is 0.5” (1.25 cm) smaller than their foot circumference. For adults, choose a size that is 1” (2.5 cm) smaller. This will ensure a snug fit, which is especially important when knitting a non-elastic stitch like stockinette.


Pattern Size Sock Circ.

Inches (cm)

Total Yarn Needed

Yds (m)


Yds (m)


Yds (m)

Toddler 5” (13) 135


75 (69) 60 (55)
Child 6” (15) 225


160 (145) 65 (60)
Women’s S 7” (18) 275


200 (185) 75 (69)
Women’s M/L 8” (20.5) 310


230 (210) 90 (82)
Men’s M 9” (23) 405


290 (265) 115 (105)



  • Sock length should be approximately 0.25” (0.75 cm) shorter than the wearer’s foot length for children, and 0.5” (1.25 cm) shorter for adults.
  • The second, contrasting color is optional, and should be used for heels, toes, and cuffs if you desire.


Provisionally Cast on

40 (48, 56, 64, 72) sts, 20 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts on each needle. I recommend using the crocheted cast on (link to tutorial above)

Knit every stitch for a looooong time. When the tube is long enough, add the details, starting with cuffs, then toes, then heels.

How will you know when the tube is long enough?

Your tube needs to be long enough for two sock legs, and two sock feet minus heels and toes. Don’t worry, I’ve done most of the math for you already!


Here’s a simple recipe for you:

  1. Write the wearer’s foot length here: _______________________________________
  2. Multiply A’s number by 2.15 for ankle socks, and by 3.5 for mid calf socks. Write it here: _______________________________________
  3. Total length of all heels and toes (circle the size you’re making):
    5 (6, 7, 8, 10)” / 13, (15, 18, 20.5, 25.5) cm
  4. Do the Math! B-C = minimum sock tube length
    Write it here: ___________________________

Now that you’ve knit your tube, you’re ready to add the details!

Do not bind off the tube – proceed directly to Cuff 1


**Switch to smaller needles.**

Pattern Round: (k2tbl, p2) around.

Work pattern round for

1.25 (1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25)” /

3.25 (3.75, 4.5, 5, 5.75) cm.

Bind off using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind off or Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Better Bind Off.


With the smaller needles, pick up the held stitches from your provisional cast on.

40 (48, 56, 64, 72) sts,

20 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts on each needle.

Work as you did for Cuff 1.


This is the fiddliest part of the whole sock, because you literally need to cut the sock in half.

Follow these steps:

  1. Fold the sock tube in half, mark the center row.
  2. Thread a lifeline into the two rounds of stitches that are above and below the marked round (there’s a link to a video tutorial on pg 1 of this pattern).
  3. Snip and unravel the central, marked, round.
  4. Rejoice! You now have two separate socks on waste yarn!



Insert the larger needles into the held stitches of one sock, picking them back up and removing the lifeline after they are all on the needles.

40 (48, 56, 64, 72) sts.
Place markers at beginning of round, and after first 20 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts.

Round 1: knit

Round 2: (sm, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1) repeat once more.

Round 3: (sm, k1, k1tbl, k to next marker) repeat once more.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you have 20 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts left,

10 (12, 14, 16, 18) on each needle.

Repeat Round 1 another 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times.

12 (16, 16, 20, 24) sts remain, 6 (8, 8, 10, 12) on each needle

Graft the toe shut. A good grafting tutorial can be found here:



Work the second toe the same way.

Now you just need heels!


If you have never done an afterthought heel before, check out my photo tutorial for cutting and picking up the heel!

Use larger needles.
Measure from the toe of the sock upwards.

At 1.25 (1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25)” / 3 (4, 4.5, 5, 5.5) cm shorter than full sock length, insert your needle into the right leg of all the sole stitches in one row, picking up 20 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts.

Repeat the process two rows above the one you just picked up stitches from (Photo 1). Cut a center stitch of the row between the picked up rows (Photo 2), and unravel all except the last 2 sts on each side (Photos 3-5).

Place markers for either side of the heel to divide the top and bottom half of the stitches.

Knit 2 rounds.

*If you have a high instep, knit an additional 1-2 rounds before beginning the decreases.

Now, knit a toe! (Yes – a toe! You read correctly!)

Graft the heel shut, and work the second heel the same way. Weave in all ends and block if desired.


Congratulations! Your scrambled socks are complete!


Finished items may be sold from my patterns if they are your handmade work, but may not be mass produced. Standard copyright restrictions apply to the pattern itself. You may not sell, distribute, copy and paste the pattern itself to other websites, or otherwise reproduce my patterns or any of their charts, images, or written descriptions without written permission from me. Use of this pattern indicates agreement to these terms.





Instagram: @RuthBrasch



I’d love to see your project, and would love it if you’d tag me when you post them on social media!


Wrenly Blanket Pattern


Photo Nov 13, 2 27 45 PM

Meet Wrenly! She’s a soft, fluffy, textured blanket that is sure to please the little snuggler in your life!

If you would like the ad-free PDF version, you can find it in these places:

GAUGE: 8 sts/7 rows = 4” of dc

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: 45” wide x 41.75” tall / 112.5 cm wide x 104.5 cm tall



  • Bernat Velvet 880 yds (805 m) for the size written. Sample is shown in the Cabernet Colorway.
    • If you want to expand the blanket, Please note that 10 rows of this blanket require approximately 125 yds (115 m)
  • US J (6.0 mm) crochet hook



Bobble = (yo, insert hook, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) x4, yo, pull through all 9 loops on hook.

CH = Chain

DC = Double crochet

FDC = Foundation Double Crochet

NOTE: the bobble is worked on the wrong side of the blanket, so when you complete it the smooth side of the blanket should be facing you. This helps make the bobbles tight enough that there isn’t a huge gap between stitches.



FDC 99, or any multiple of 8+3

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, dc, (bobble, dc 3) repeat to last 2 sts, bobble, dc. Turn.

Rows 3-5: Ch 2, dc in each st across (98 dc). Turn.

Row 6: Ch 2, dc 3, (bobble, dc 3) to end of row. Turn.

Rows 7-9: Ch 2, dc in each st across (98 dc). Turn.

Repeat Rows 2-9 an additional 8 times (73 rows total) until your blanket is as tall as you want it.

If you want to work a border, I suggest working a round or two of DC around the edge of the blanket, working 3 dc in each corner. The sample blanket does not have a border on it, as the velvet yarn creates a very finished look.

Boiled Socks

The toddler size shown on my 2 year old’s feet

Are you looking for new ways to knit socks?
Have you been considering toe-up socks but don’t know where to start? This is the pattern for you!

Boiled is the first in my series of stockinette socks.
Dip your toes in with this first pattern – it’s as easy as boiling an egg!

This pattern is also available as a free YouTube series.
Video 1 can be found here

This pattern has been fully tech edited to ensure that it is clear and error free.

**Want the ad-free PDF? You can snag it on

– Size US 1.5 (2.5 mm) knitting needles in the size needed to meet specified gauge, in your preferred style for small circumference knitting
– Size US 1 (2.25) knitting needles in the size .25mm smaller than gauge needles.
– Yarn: 120 (210, 255, 300, 390) yds / 110 (190, 233, 272, 356) meters of fingering weight yarn. Sample uses Must Stash Yarn “Must Match Sock” in the “Kama Sutra” colorway. ” (450 yds / 410 m) per 100g hank | 75/25 Superwash Merino / Nylon)
– Tapestry Needle

Cast On (JMCO through TOE):
Heel turn (Short Row Heel):
Bind off (JSSBO):

32 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in Stockinette in the round

Sizes available (Finished Sock Size):
Toddler (Child, Women’s S, Women’s M/L, Men’s M)
5 (6, 7, 8, 9) inches / 13 (15, 18, 20.5, 23) cm in circumference
*measured around the ball of the foot*

Circ = circular needle
K = knit
Kfb = knit in front and back of next stitch
Ktbl = knit through back loop
P = purl
PM = Place stitch marker
St(s) = stitch(es)
W&T = Wrap and turn. On RS of work, slip next st to right needle, bring yarn forward, slip stitch back to left needle, and turn work. On WS of work, slip next stitch to right needle, bring yarn back, slip stitch back to left needle, and turn work.

Measure the circumference of the ball of the intended wearer’s foot. For children, choose a size that is 0.5” (1.25 cm) smaller than their foot circumference. For adults, choose a size that is 1” (2.5 cm) smaller. This will ensure a snug fit, which is especially important when knitting a non-elastic stitch like stockinette.

With larger needles, use Judy’s Magic Cast on to cast on 12 (16, 20, 20, 24) sts,
6 (8, 10, 10, 12) on each needle.

Set up round: PM, K 6 (8, 10, 10, 12), PM, ktbl 6 (8, 10, 10, 12). The first half of the stitches are the Instep, the second half are the sole.

*Slip all markers as you come to them

Work Round 2 (below) a total of 4 times.
16 sts increased, 28 (32, 36, 36, 40) sts total.

Then, alternate working Rounds 2-3 until you have a total of 40 (48, 56, 64, 72) sts.

Round 2: (k1, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1) twice
Round 3: Knit every stitch on both needles.

Knit every stitch around until your work measures
1.25 (1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25)” / 3 (4, 4.5, 5, 5.5) cm shorter than wearer’s total foot length.

Remember, for a good fit, make the sock approximately 0.5” (1 cm) shorter than the actual wearer’s foot length for an adult foot, and
0.25” (0.5 cm) shorter for a child’s foot.

The heel will be worked on the second half of the stitches. Since you just finished working these stitches, you need to turn your work before continuing.

Row 1: purl to last st, w&t
Row 2: knit to last st, w&t
Row 3: purl to stitch before wrapped stitch, w&t
Row 4: knit to stitch before wrapped stitch, w&t
Repeat Rows 3-4 until you have 6 (8, 10, 12, 12) unwrapped stitches remaining

Rows worked in heel: 14 (16, 18, 20, 24)

You will now work back across the heel, picking up and working the wraps with the stitches as indicated:

Row 5: purl to closest wrapped stitch, purl wrap with stitch, w&t
Row 6: knit to closest wrapped stitch, knit wrap with stitch, w&t
Row 7: purl to closest wrapped stitch, purl both wraps with stitch, w&t
Row 8: knit to closest wrapped stitch, knit both wraps with stitch, w&t

Repeat Rows 7-8 until all of your stitches have been worked except the two outermost stitches.

Row 9: purl until you have 1 st left, purl stitch with both wraps, wrap last stitch before marker, turn
Row 10: knit until you have 1 st left, knit both wraps with stitch.

Begin working in the round again

Insert right needle from front to back into the stitch that is one to the right, and one below the next active stitch. Yarn over, pull the loop through to the front (1 st picked up). Slip the newly made stitch onto the left needle, and knit it together with the first stitch of the round, knit to marker, knitting the wrap with the last stitch before the marker, knit to last st before marker, pick up and knit the wrap with the stitch.

Knit every stitch until your sock leg measures approximately the same length as the foot of your sock. Check this by folding your work in half at the heel – your needles should be right about where the widest part of the toe is – at the end of the increases.

**Switch to smaller needles**

Pattern Round: (k1, p1) around.
Work pattern round for
1.25 (1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25)” /
3.25 (3.75, 4.5, 5, 5.75) cm.

Bind off using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind off or Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Better Bind Off.
(Video tutorials are linked above)

Repeat all instructions for second sock.

Finished items may be sold from my patterns if they are your handmade work, but may not be mass produced. Standard copyright restrictions apply to the pattern itself. You may not sell, distribute, copy and paste the pattern itself to other websites, or otherwise reproduce my patterns or any of their charts, images, or written descriptions without written permission from me. Use of this pattern indicates agreement to these terms.

Instagram: @RuthBrasch
#RBDSocks #BoiledSocks
I’d love to see your projects, and would love it if you’d tag me in them when you make them!

Perfect Picnic Headband

Summer is the perfect time to relax outside and enjoy a little lunch or dinner. The sun, a breeze, and a snack! This headband is the perfect accessory to help keep your hair out of your eyes while you’re on a summer adventure! It’s size adjustable, so it will work for all ages from newborn through adults, or could even be lengthened into a belt!

A close up of a tunisian crochet headband. The headband has diagonal lines in it, and is a multicolored red, brown, and orange tonal yarn.
Perfect Picnic Headband crocheted in Fearless Feet Fiber Co Soft Sock
Colorway: Handprint Turkey

This pattern uses simple Tunisian crochet techniques, but doesn’t require a special hook. As written on this blog, this version of the pattern assumes you have a basic knowledge of Tunisian crochet. If you would like a PDF version with a full, step-by-step photo tutorial and suggested sizing charts for ages newborn-adult, that is available for purchase on Ravelry or Etsy.

The Perfect Picnic Headband is also perfect for using up mini skeins or scraps. Even the adult XL size uses approximately 17g of fingering weight yarn, so all sizes can be achieved with just one mini skein.

GAUGE: 4 sts / 4 rows = 1″ (1.25 cm) in unblocked pattern stitch

– This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
– Do NOT replace the initial chain circle with a magic circle. This is your buttonhole to fasten the headband when it’s done.
– Yarn requirement is given for the largest size (model has a 23.5” head). Smaller sizes will require less.

– Crochet Hook Size US H (5.0 mm)
– 80 yards (74 meters) of fingering weight yarn, OR 40 yards (37 meters) of dk weight yarn.
– (1) button approximately 1″ (1.25 cm) in diameter.
– Tapestry Needle to sew on button (makes sure it’s small enough to fit through the holes of the button!)

Stitches Used:
DC = Double Crochet. Yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice.
DC2TOG = Double Crochet 2 Together. (Yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pul up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) twice, yo, pull through all three loops on hook. 1 st decreased.
ETSS = End TSS. Worked in the last stitch of a row only. Insert hook into two loops of last stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop.
RetP = Return Pass. Yo, pull through 1 loop on hook, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) to end of row. One loop remains on the hook.
Sl St = Slip Stitch. Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
St(s) = Stitch(es)
TSS = Tunisian Simple Stitch. Insert hook from right to left in next vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop.
TSS2TOG = Tunisian Simple Stitch two together. Insert hook from right to left under next 2 vertical bars, yarn over, pull up one loop. (1 st decreased)
YO = Yarn over. Wrap yarn over hook from front to back.


Chain 9
Join the chain in a circle with a slip stitch.

Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), dc 9 into the chain circle. Turn.
Begin working in Tunisian Crochet terminology:
Row 2: TSS 8, ETSS, RetP.

Row 3: (yo, TSS2TOG)x4, ETSS. RetP.
Row 4: TSS, (yo, TSS2TOG)x3, TSS, ETSS. RetP.

Continue to work, alternating Rows 3-4 until your work measures approximately 4″ (10 cm) shorter than the intended wearer’s head circumference, not including the buttonhole loop.

Work Row 2 once more.

Slip Stitch in each vertical bar across. Turn.

Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch) DC, DC2TOG, DC until 3 sts before end of row, DC2TOG, DC.

Cut yarn. Weave in all ends, and attach button to the end of the headband that does not have the loop.


Choosing your first Tunisian Crochet Hook

Photo of Chiaogoo TSPIN Interchangeable Crochet Hooks in their case. The case is a black background with red fabric, printed with small, black, floral designs.
Various Tunisian crochet hooks are displayed. On the left is the Clover interchangeable set - light wooden hooks in a tan case with purple edging. On the right is the ChiaoGoo TSPIN set - light wooden hooks in a black case with red accents. On the table lie various tunisian crochet hooks - long straight wooden ones, one interchangeable head, a double ended one, and a metal hook with a flexible cable attached.
Clover Interchangeable tunisian crochet hook set (left), Chiaogoo TSPIN interchangeable tunisian crochet hook set (right) and assorted other tunisian crochet hooks – straight, double ended, and Knitter’s Pride Interchangeable.

If you’re at this post i’m guessing by now a pretty nifty Tunisian Crochet design (maybe even one of mine) has caught your eye! But, you’ve been told you need a special hook that will likely need to be ordered online.

Which hook is the best? Which size do you buy? Should it be straight, double ended, or with a flexible cord?

Don’t worry, i’ve got you! In this post i’ll cover a few of the basic details you need to know about choosing your first Tunisian Crochet hook as well as my personal favorites (which are NOT affiliate links – just my opinions)!

Types of Tunisian Crochet Hooks

A long, hand carved tunisian crochet hook by Roux Studios. The hook is painted to mimic a chalkboard - a black base coat of paint with intricate floral designs painted in white.
Hand carved tunisian crochet hook by Roux Studios

A traditional Tunisian crochet hook is a long straight version of a standard crochet hook. This type of hook you likely have seen your Grandmother using to do what she calls “afghan crochet” or “afghan stitch.”

What do you use it for?
It’s excellent for making wide pieces of fabric such as blanket panels, scarves, or even an infinity scarf worked flat. Think of it as the straight knitting needles of tunisian crochet.

Where can I find one?
1) A craft store. You can find a traditional tunisian crochet hook in just about any craft store, but you won’t have many choices for sizes. Likely you will have the option for a US J (6.0mm) or US H (5.0mm) and that’s about it. (Cost: about $6)
2) Furls crochet hooks just started carrying Tunisian crochet hooks. They have plenty of sizes, and lovely wood color choices. (Cost: about $25)
3) An artisan hand-carved hook. These have a wide price range depending on the intricacy of the work. The one in the photo above was $90 because it’s an absolute work of art!

Interchangeable crochet hooks & flexible hooks

Chiaogoo TSPIN interchangeable crochet hook set. 11 crochet hook heads sit in a black case with red floral fabric accents.
Chiaogoo T-SPIN interchangeable crochet hook set

You’ve probably seen interchangeable hook sets around if you’re active on social media. Hook sets like these are popular on Facebook, Instagram, Ravelry, and YouTube.
They feature a solid crochet hook (hook length varies depending on the brand) with a flexible cable that screws into the base of the hook.

What are they used for?
Interchangeable and flexible hooks are excellent for making very long pieces, or shaped pieces. For example, if you want to crochet a triangular shawl like my Dayspring Shawl

A white woman with brown hair stands in front of a weathered barn door. The door is half gray, weathered wood, half painted deep red. She holds a shawl that is striped yellow and speckled red in front of her, looking proud of her work.
Dayspring Shawl by Ruth Brasch

A flexible crochet hook allows you to work around the point of the triangle, from one edge to the other on a single flexible crochet hook. It also allows you to hold a large number of stitches on the cable without the weight of a long straight hook, so the flexible hooks are a little more ergonomic and user friendly.

Where can you find them?
1) The set above is from Chiaogoo; it’s called T-Spin, and is about $135
2) Individual hooks and cables can be bought from WEBS (yarn.com). These are the Knitter’s Pride Ginger hooks, which you’ll hear more about slightly further down this page when I talk about my hook/brand preferences. These were the first hooks I tried, precisely because I could try them without buying a full set.
3) Clover/Takumi also has an interchangeable bamboo set that is very similar to the Chiaogoo set (more comparisons below). My set of these I found at Michael’s. They retail for about $75, but if you catch them when the store has a 40-50% off coupon, it makes the set much more affordable. That’s how and when I got my set.

Double Ended Hooks

A hand holds a double ended Clover, Takumi crochet hook size 6.0mm (USA Size J hook).
Clover Takumi double ended bamboo hook for Tunisian Crochet. Size US J (6.0 mm)

What are they used for?
Double ended hooks are used for working Tunisian Crochet in the round. It’s a super fun technique that I plan to write more about soon!

Where can they be found?
1) You can typically find these in craft stores like Michael’s and Joann’s. The last time I looked in one, I saw about 4 sizes in the store (US H-J/4.0-6.0mm) and a few more online.
2) Online. The google is your friend!

But Ruth, what’s the difference between sets, and which do YOU use?

I’m so glad you asked!

Three tunisian crochet hooks are held up to compare with one another. The left hook has a larger head and shallower throat, the middle and right hooks are almost identical except the right-most hook is pointier.
Comparison of three Tunisian Crochet Hooks
From L-R: Knitter’s Pride Ginger, Chiaogoo T-Spin, Clover/Takumi

Check out the photo above – You can see a hook from each of the three interchangeable sets I mentioned. Here are some of the biggest differences i’ve noticed while using them:

Knitter’s Pride Ginger ($129)
* 12 Hooks, Sizes 3.5-12mm
* Gloss/Sealant on hook for a smoother feel
* Heaviest of the three
* Largest head of the three
* Shallowest throat of the three
* Point on end of head to help with catching yarn
* Medium length
* Comes with standard Knitter’s pride cables – these are the least flexible of the three.
* Has a key for tightening the join between cable and hook
* Storage: Flip cover, snap shut case (plus a matching pen)

Chiaogoo T-Spin ($135):
* 11 hooks size E-N (3.5-10mm)
* No gloss or sealant, but very smooth feel in hand
* Light weight bamboo
* Throat is the same as the Clover set, but with a rounder angle
* Slightly larger and rounder head than the Clover set, much smaller head than the Knitter’s Pride set
* Comes with the standard red Chiaogoo cable with a metal wire inside it – This helps reduce cable kinking.
* Has a key for tightening the join between cable and hook
* Storage: Zip up travel case

Clover Bamboo Interchangeable Set ($179):
* 9 hooks size E-L (3.5mm-8mm)
* No gloss or sealant, but very smooth feel in hand
* Light weight bamboo
* Throat is the same as the Chiaogoo set, but has the sharpest angle to it
* Smallest head of the three, with a medium point – less pointy than Knitter’s Pride, more pointy than Chiaogoo.
* Comes with a clear, VERY light weight cable
* No key for tightening the join between cable and hook
* Storage: a roll up fabric case with a tie

Yes, Ruth, but which one?
If you have the budget for it, I’d go for the T-Spin set. While the T-Spin and Clover sets are very similar, the Chiaogoo set comes with another hook, a tightening key, and a zipping case that’s super compact for traveling and storage.

For a budget friendly option, the Clovers are an excellent choice. They’re very similar to the Chiaogoo set, and if you have a coupon for the store, can be VERY budget friendly.

The Knitter’s Pride set is my third choice. I enjoyed them for my first hooks, and they’re excellent if you want to buy a single hook without needing to buy the full set.

I hope this was a helpful article for you! I’d love to hear which hooks you end up choosing and how you like them!


Many skeins and cakes of yarn stacked up on each other on a wooden table. A gray stone wall is in the background. Yarn colors are green, pink, purple, blue, orange, and white.
A pile of yarn being de-stashed by Ruth!

Goal writing posts are everywhere this time of year, and apparently my blog is no different! This year I’m making goals that are more general and attainable, rather that super specific.

Goal 1: Finish or Frog all WIPS started before 2020. I did a lot of this already, and I’m down to about 9 WIPS/UFOS. So I’m excited to get some of these super old ones resolved one way or the other!

How? Finish or frog one old project per month.

Goal 2: Purchase With Intent. This means I want to buy yarn only when I have specific projects in mind for it.

How? Self control!

Goal 3: More Out Than In. 2019 was a little heavy on stash acquisition. I’m really happy with the things I bought, but now I want to use the pretties I already have!

How? I’m using an excel spreadsheet to track yardage in and out. Yardage will be logged when yarn is bought, or projects are completed.

That’s it! What are your goals for this year?